SUMP SCREEN
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My rebuild journey. (old title: Future owner - Help me identify this 650.)
- Thread starter Sudonate91
- Start date
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Dang. 27mm socket for these oil drain screws... Something which I don't have. I tried with an adjustable wrench but I don't have near enough leverage. Back to the parts store!
1 1/16 will also work.
Yes, you'll want to pull, inspect, and clean both oil filter screens. If you're going to place a parts order, get some gaskets for the sump plate and the side oil filter cover and the filter itself. The two side filter gaskets, once changed, last darn near forever, but I would get a spare of each just in case one gets damaged during a filter service. I'd get 2 or 3 sump plate gaskets. You can reuse these several times but eventually they start to leak and need replacing. You'll also want new seal washers for the two drain plugs. These are a crush washer and can be reused a couple of times, but eventually they'll get totally flattened and need replacing.
https://www.xs650direct.com/products?show_all=true&category=111&page=1
https://www.xs650direct.com/products?show_all=true&category=105&page=2
https://www.xs650direct.com/products?show_all=true&category=111&page=1
https://www.xs650direct.com/products?show_all=true&category=105&page=2
Go to Harbor Freight or similar and buy some cheap torque wrenches. 1/4 drive, 3/8 drive, and 1/2 drive. They’re pretty accurate in the middle of the scale. If you’re not a professional mechanic, that will help keep you from breaking any holts.
I find I use my small inch/lb. torque wrench the most. This is the one you'll want for the small screws and bolts holding the side covers and oil sump plate on. Best chance of making these oil leak-free is to tighten all the fasteners equally. Their size is M6 and I use 70 - 80 in/lbs on them. It's not about making them all super tight, it's about making them equal.
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Ha im far from being a professional mechanic. The most iv done was rebuild a power washer I got for 40 bucks, brake line and caliper installations on ford 150s, random alternator replacements for friends, and of course oil and spark plug changes. The only reason this bike was left to me was because I wanted to work on the bike with the old man figuring it would be a fun project to do together. So this is a huge learning process to do it solo - which is why I'm so grateful to have this site and all you guys helping me. This is a huge learning process - iv never taken on a full mechanical restoration like this.
Well, this bike is a very good teacher because most need lots done to them, lol. None of it is really hard, and it's not that it's a bad bike or anything. It's just a 40 year old bike, so it needs some luv. When these were new, they weren't the top of the line model (except the 1st couple years). They were a good sized bike for a reasonable price so many new riders bought them. Unfortunately, usually this meant these people didn't have a clue about how to maintain the bike. Many of these never saw proper servicing during their lifetime. Oil changes were far and few between, filter cleanings even more so. Most of us here try to right those wrongs and bring these bikes back to their former glory.
This is a very good basic bike. It's well made and responds well to basic "hop-up" things. If you go through it good enough, it can be made into a very dependable machine. Yamaha refined it some over the years but since then, the owners themselves have come up with lots more "tweaks" and improvements. Even up to this day, we're searching out and finding ways to make these bikes better. What with the internet, in the last 10 or 12 years, the knowledge base for this bike has grown immensely, and all that info is right at your finger tips for free.
This is a very good basic bike. It's well made and responds well to basic "hop-up" things. If you go through it good enough, it can be made into a very dependable machine. Yamaha refined it some over the years but since then, the owners themselves have come up with lots more "tweaks" and improvements. Even up to this day, we're searching out and finding ways to make these bikes better. What with the internet, in the last 10 or 12 years, the knowledge base for this bike has grown immensely, and all that info is right at your finger tips for free.
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
So. I replaced the plugs with some new iridium plugs and holy cow did it 'spark' new life! I was able to start without choke and it actually had responsive throttle! It ran for a solid minute before I had to stop because I was in a closed garage. I will change oil tomorrow and maybe get to blow some cobs out.
Great news. Looks like you have an XS habit now
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Changed the oil today. The filter under the bike has a gapping hole in it. I will need to buy new. The top filter looks really good. I put it all back together and ran it.
Here is a video of it running.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7x8BrAq84A3NHfVb6
It won't idle but it will start without choke after it's warm with a little throttle. Tons of smoke from then muffler area which imagine is just gunk burning off? It seemed to get better with time. I kind of want to try to slime the back tire to get it to hold air so I can try to putt around the culdisac. Probably a bad idea as I'm thinking out loud...
Here is a video of it running.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7x8BrAq84A3NHfVb6
It won't idle but it will start without choke after it's warm with a little throttle. Tons of smoke from then muffler area which imagine is just gunk burning off? It seemed to get better with time. I kind of want to try to slime the back tire to get it to hold air so I can try to putt around the culdisac. Probably a bad idea as I'm thinking out loud...
You gotta rebuild the rear wheel anyway... go for it.
Jus' don't go any further than you'd like to push nor any faster than you'd like to fall. 
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Yep I figured imma replace the back wheel so might as well try slime!Jus' don't go any further than you'd like to push nor any faster than you'd like to fall.
And yeah I don't plan on leaving my neighbor which is comprised of 4 culdisacs and a max speed limit of 25mph. I don't wanna go too buck wild with that hole in the filter. I'll probably run it a bit and do another oil change in the spring with a filter change.
I would put back New stock spark plugs BP 7 ES --- if i remember right
And there is most likely a leak in the exhaust system sucking in extra air making it backfire
perhaps at the left side where it smokes check those connections and bolts.
As well as carburetor quick check nothing is loose after the reinstall.
Is this with or without air filters New or Old cleaned or ??
I Would check charging voltage across the battery when running . 14 V ca .
Otherwise it seems to run good. As far it is possible to hear .
If you test ride begin checking the brakes ..first .. so something is there ..hitting the neighbors children with no brakes.
Can land one in jail or worse.
Don't throw that holed filter away, it can be made good again. We patch them with J.B.Weld .....
It's very common for them to tear out. Best explanation for it I think is revving too high while the engine is cold and the oil still really thick.
And on all the popping at idle, you made no mention of where you set your mix screws after your carb cleaning. You may need to open them up all the way to the 3 to 3.5 turns out range. You also made no mention of what jet sizes are in there, stock or larger. That 2-1 pipe may require a little larger than stock sizes.
It's very common for them to tear out. Best explanation for it I think is revving too high while the engine is cold and the oil still really thick.
And on all the popping at idle, you made no mention of where you set your mix screws after your carb cleaning. You may need to open them up all the way to the 3 to 3.5 turns out range. You also made no mention of what jet sizes are in there, stock or larger. That 2-1 pipe may require a little larger than stock sizes.
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Don't throw that holed filter away, it can be made good again. We patch them with J.B.Weld .....
It's very common for them to tear out. Best explanation for it I think is revving too high while the engine is cold and the oil still really thick.
And on all the popping at idle, you made no mention of where you set your mix screws after your carb cleaning. You may need to open them up all the way to the 3 to 3.5 turns out range. You also made no mention of what jet sizes are in there, stock or larger. That 2-1 pipe may require a little larger than stock sizes.
The jets should be stock. Also the mix screws are just tightened down. I didn't pay much attention to it other than getting all the jets snug but not right. Probably not the correct way. Lol
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Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
For the air mixture screw. I tightened them down unt they seemed snug. The proper way to do these would be to go down to snug, then start backing it out? I read 2-3 full turns back out? Is that correct?
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Yes!! Boy, you are new to this, lol. The mix screw is an adjustable tuning part. You set the screws so many turns out from closed. The more open they are, the more fuel/air mix they allow into the carb (and engine). If you do have them closed up snug, that's why it won't idle and why it's popping so much. Try backing them out about 3 turns, you'll be quite surprised at the difference it makes, lol.
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Im incredibly new! Also an idiot I suppose! Are there any other of these screws/jets I need to watch out for in the carb? I just tightened them all snug but not hard since they were brass.
