Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Also. The front brake seems to be really stiff. Its not locked up but I can hardly compress the handle and Im pretty sure it doesnt compress the front brakes. I probably need to look into refurbing that.
Set means the screw, spring, washer and seal. 1 "set" per carb.Do you know if this 'set' for both carbs or just one? I want to get my order in corerctly
The plugs have to come out so you can remove the mix screws. As I mentioned earlier, you can't clean the idle circuit properly with the screw still in place, it partially blocks the outlet hole into the main bore. There's also a tiny o-ring on it so if you did try using carb cleaner, you'd probably just end up melting it. Besides, most need replacing due to their age. They're like hard rubber washers now instead of soft round profile o-rings. They're not doing their intended job of sealing the mix screw into the passageway anymore. But the biggest reason for removing the plug is so you can adjust the mix screw. The factory set it to meet emission standards, not for best running, and once you start changing jets, that will change where the screw needs to be set too.
Here's an old original mix screw (top) compared to a new aftermarket one. As you can see, the original o-ring is pretty badly flattened out and deformed (also hard as a rock) .....
And here's the mix screw outlet hole into the main bore. Pretty hard to properly clean that out with the screw in the way .....
I was able to get the tower jets out. But i cant seem to get the washers underneath it. Any tips?
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Oh great to know! Yeah the spring and stuff looks good but I was going to replace for the sake of having new. So I will try to find the o-ring. Thanks for saving me some cash!.Yes, it's one "assembly" for one carb, so order two. But I'm not sure why you're getting these? If you don't drill too deep when removing the plugs, the screw tops will remain good, like new. If you're doing it for the little o-ring, the size used is a 1mm x 3mm. You can just buy them separately somewhere.
What are your thoughts on removing all that corrosion? You'll also be relacing the wheel with new spokes. It could be pitted when you get it cleaned up.Found some 18" wheels for 40$ + shipping. Spokes are pretty rusty but it comes with a axle. Thoughts?
I was thinking of replacing the spokes and trying to polish and put a new clear coat on the wheel and bits. Do you think it's too much work?What are your thoughts on removing all that corrosion? You'll also be relacing the wheel with new spokes. It could be pitted when you get it cleaned up.
That has to be up to you. What do you have a better supply of, time or money? What value do you place on learning these skills if you don’t already possess them? Also, that wheel may or may not look worse when you open the box than it does in the pictures.Do you think it's too much work?.
That has to be up to you. What do you have a better supply of, time or money? What value do you place on learning these skills if you don’t already possess them? Also, that wheel may or may not look worse when you open the box than it does in the pictures.
Found some 18" wheels for 40$ + shipping. Spokes are pretty rusty but it comes with a axle. Thoughts?
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Keep in mind that this is an aluminum rim. Your original front is a chrome plated steel rim. From a handling point of view, they say it's best not to mis-match rim types because apparently aluminum rims flex differently, or a different amount, than steel ones. You may never even notice if you don't push the bike hard, but just be aware of it. But, I guess getting the actual hub is the important thing. You could always put a steel rim on it instead of that aluminum one. But that is going to add more to the total cost. Maybe it's best to hold out for a 16" steel wheel just like was originally on there.