I did a lot of second guessing. How hard can it be? I have done autos often over the last 30 years, generally with a leg man pumping, some swearing and maybe a beer or two to pass the time. After the second bottle of fluid I started to wonder about the sensibility of pumping and air bubble DOWN a brake hose and was considering ways to mount the M/C low, the caliper high, not spill fluid and open and close the bleeder valve wihtout twisting and upsetting the caliper.Thank you Mailman and 5Twins.. And of course all the other who have offered advice so far. I re-attacked this problem today. First, I had been working arround the gas tank. My fear of splashing fluid on it caused me to take the time to remove the tail section and tank. Then I tried bleeding with the bleeder 1/4 turn and 1/2 turn open. And I tried. Mighty Vac pulls fluid for a while, then pump the lever, get a bubble, then clear fluid but no lever pressure. Repeat. As a note, I tied the bleed tube to semi verticle as seen in the picture to easily monitor the fluid flow. Also, used the Mighty Vac catch can for both vacuum and pumping. The small size gives you 5 or 6 reservoir volumes before you have to empty it. I went through 24 oz of brake fluid getting the same results and started to wonder if I was an idiot expecting different result from the same method. I had wrapped the bleeder threads inteflon tape whichlimited the air leakage for a while but soon, with the Mighty Vac I was pulling a stream of bubble past the treads. Axel grease on the threads worked very well to seal them but started to leak a little later on. This is where doubt comes in. Is the caliper bad? Am I sucking air past a banjo fitting? Is the 2 or 3 year old DOT3 in unopened containers bad? Is the new M/C defective? I went to get more brake fluid and considered ordering a new M/C. 1/2 way through the third 12oz brake Fluid container I finally got some pressure at the lever. Cleaned up the bleeder threads and bled the system. View attachment 209250