One Mans Junk.... '72 CS5E (RD200) Build.

Checked on the seals this morning and the Post Office still said something to the affect of still stuck in customs. Imagine my surprise this evening when the mailman showed up with the seals. :er:
Awesome!!

Cleaned up the crank and installed the seals. I think I forgot to mention that I kept working on the crank and finally got the runout down to where it was just barely discernable on the runout gauge. I'd say somewhere around 0.0002" (two - ten thousands). The book calls for less than 0.0012". I'll take it... ;)



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Set the crank in the left case half and screwed on my homemade tooling. Worked jus' like the factory stuff. Pulled the crank in easy peasy.



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Made a (wood) platform for the left half to set on and installed the tranny.



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Ran a bead of sealant around the left case half, set the right half in position and installed the tooling. It pulled the crank out through the bearing purty as you please.



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And here we are. Crank spins nicely. Tranny spins nicely and all the gears work. If anything... it was all pretty anti-climatic.... everything went together just as it should.



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It's almost midnight and I had to force myself to quit for the night. Buildin' engines is too much fun. :laugh2:
Man, that's purttyfull! Your gonna be smellin the aroma of burning bean oil in no time. Have you miced the jugs yet?
 
Here ya go JP. Looks like you're correct... one size fits all tooling set for all the vertical split cases. If I'm lucky, the tooling I made will also fit my DT250 engine. Fingers crossed.

Here's outta the CS5 manual.



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I have a homemade DT crank install tool if you need it.
 
Forgot to update this thread. Bottom end is pretty much back together... as far as I can go anyway.
All metal and fiber disc's mic'd out within limits... they ain't nothin' to write home about though.
Scuffed up the metal disc's. They'll do for now 'till I run across some new ones.


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Clutch back together. The Kicker shaft is toast so the right side is on hold until I run across a replacement.



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Bagged and on the shelf for now.



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How the heck did somebody chew up that kicker shaft like that! 😳
Prolly didn't get a pic 'cause I removed 'em immediately... but there was a set of Vise Grips on the shaft when I got the bike. My guess is that because the engine wouldn't turn over (backwards rings and a bent crank) they stripped the kick lever and pressed on with the Vise Grips. :banghead:
 
Well crap... go to bed in 2023 and wake up the next morning in 2025. Yeah, it's the only excuse I could come up with... pretty lame huh?

I've finally been building out the basement workshop and this little bike has patiently sat there on the floor the whole time. That's a polite way of saying I trip over the damn thing every time I turn around. :cautious: Anyway....

Finished tearing the frame apart, then wire wheeled and sandblasted my way down to bare metal. Bonus; under all that crud was very little in the way of rust. Pretty surprising actually. Also cut off a few tabs here and there that I won't be needing.
... and I'm yet again impressed with my little 20 buck Harbor Freight sandblasting gun. Thing does amazing work!!

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Didn't get a shot of it, but I cleaned up the nasty Yamaha welds a bit. Nothing crazy, just took down the high spots, then used J B Weld to smooth over all the welds. Again, nothing too crazy, just wanted to eliminate all the spots where dirt gathers... and you can't reach. Then a full wet coat of grey epoxy primer.

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And here's where it gets weird interesting... I've always wondered what it's like to shoot metal flake... never shot it before. I picked up a 2oz packet of this stuff off Amazon...

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This turned out to be a love/hate relationship. First off, it's claimed it'll shoot through a 1.4 nozzle. It won't. Even at 100psi at the gun ( :yikes: ) it refused to do anything more than an occasional flicker of glitter. Luckily I have a 1.8mm nozzle for one of my guns. That worked. More of the "hate" side in a moment....

This stuff gets mixed with clearcoat. Stir it in, mix it up, put your left foot in, then your left foot out.... and it's all sunk to the bottom, just that fast. Fuck. I found through trial and error that you shoot it for about 10sec, then shake the shit outta the gun for about 5sec. Rinse and repeat until done.

You're supposed to shoot this stuff over a black base. Supposedly gives it more depth. You can also use a silver or gold base. I've got all three bases, but none of them were what I wanted. What I wanted was a light(ish) gunmetal grey color that sparkles. That make sense?

So, I shot it over the grey primer. :er:
And sumbitch if it didn't work. Worked a treat actually. It came out just as I wanted, albeit with a lot more work than I expected. Once you shoot this stuff, it leaves a rough finish. Think sandpaper rough... yeah, sandpaper. So then you have to go over it with clear, again and again... :cautious: Not exactly sure, but I think about 3-4 coats worth. Anybody who's ever shot a frame knows how much of a pain in the ass they are anyway, this just heaps more pain on.

Anyway... the end product was well worth it. The camera doesn't really do it justice, it really pops in person.

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Even with all those coats of clear it still came out just a tad rough. Not bad mind you... acceptable, but I think when it's done I'll do a quick cut-n-buff on all the exposed parts. Yeah... even more pain... :cautious:

So here it is sitting in my new to me workshop next to it's brother, the Aussie Mutt.

Now what?:er:

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I've always wondered what it's like to shoot metal flake... never shot it before.

That looks pretty sharp Jim! 😉

My auto painting experience was way long ago, but I’ve shot a bunch of cars and trucks with metallic paint ( nothing really chunky ) anyways the first one I shot the metal flakes just didn’t show much and an old painter told me that if you just shoot it on like you do normal paint, the flakes tend to go straight to the bottom and kinda lay flat. He told me to lay on a wet coat, then back the gun off a couple feet and fog the wet paint, he said it allows the metallic bits to land lightly and assume random patterns. It worked back then……but that was back in the old single coat Imron days. 😄
 
He told me to lay on a wet coat, then back the gun off a couple feet and fog the wet paint, he said it allows the metallic bits to land lightly and assume random patterns. It worked back then……but that was back in the old single coat Imron days. 😄
Bingo! Shoulda mentioned it, but that's exactly how I shot it... one full coat to wet it out. Soon as that almost tacked, I just started misting it on.... 'bout 2ft away with the gun and misting (fogging) gives a nice even finish that really pops.
 
Well crap... go to bed in 2023 and wake up the next morning in 2025. Yeah, it's the only excuse I could come up with... pretty lame huh?

I've finally been building out the basement workshop and this little bike has patiently sat there on the floor the whole time. That's a polite way of saying I trip over the damn thing every time I turn around. :cautious: Anyway....

Finished tearing the frame apart, then wire wheeled and sandblasted my way down to bare metal. Bonus; under all that crud was very little in the way of rust. Pretty surprising actually. Also cut off a few tabs here and there that I won't be needing.
... and I'm yet again impressed with my little 20 buck Harbor Freight sandblasting gun. Thing does amazing work!
Cool to see you reviving the RD project...nice work! Reminds me of all the dormant projects that I need to revive.
 
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