Hello Jim. I got this rewind from you 1/2021 and have 4500 miles on it. Are these goudges affecting anything?? They were there on the rotor day one BUT have gotten worse.A new riding season is almost upon us. Time to fire up the cauldron. Lessee if I remember....
Throw in an old rotor, eye of newt and toe of frog, Wool of bat and tongue of dog…
Say the chant.... "Double, double toil and trouble; Fire burn and cauldron bubble."
Let it simmer for an hour, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon.
...and here we are, a freshly rewound rotor. This is the second one of the season. Another forum member snatched the first one up before it even cooled.
Prices are in comment #1.
I'll note here that this month marks 4 yrs since I first offered this service. Prices ain't changed in all that time.
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Not sure. Look at this pic. You probably remember me, when i first bought this from you I questioned these goudges but you said the rotor will outlast the bike. It may still be fine but they look worse now and worn alot more.Can't tell what I'm lookin' at from that pic. Shoot some better ones?
Fwiw... a "gouge" happens when something sharp scratches out a piece of the metal. Not rightly sure what would be gouging the ring in exactly the same place to make it worse.
You live in Florida right?Also where would this corrosion come from?
Havent checked ohms on slip rings yet. Yea maybe from washin bike water sits in there and corrodes over time. The thing is when I rev the bike till about 3000 RPMs or even more, the battery voltage never goes higher than 12.4. To me that seems like a bad rectifier. If the rectifier was good it would be charging the battery upon revving the bike right??There is a routine for testing them and in my view rectifiers are more robust than other pats.
I have had one that gave up a diode .But I would not be surprised if that one works.
I have seen worse looking working.
I would not use chemicals .instead try to scrape it off with something soft brush or so.
Is the rotor slip ring resistance checked ?
Regulator ?
It can be water
No Not Right .. the charging circuit consists of more parts ..Havent checked ohms on slip rings yet. Yea maybe from washin bike water sits in there and corrodes over time. The thing is when I rev the bike till about 3000 RPMs or even more, the battery voltage never goes higher than 12.4. To me that seems like a bad rectifier. If the rectifier was good it would be charging the battery upon revving the bike right??
I’m about 3 miles from the ocean and the bike is kept in the garage but not under a cover. There is also a dehumidifier in the garage.Just kibbitzing but how far from the ocean do you live. How often do you wash your bike, is it kept under roof?
When I do the slap test with a 10 mm wrench which is very light, I turn the ignition on and it pulls the wrench very very very ever so slightly. Barely any magnet pull at all. What does that mean? Shouldn’t it be a strong pull?Yeah... I hate to drop highly technical electronics terminology on ya... but that thing looks to be toasted.
IMHO that means it's time to do some more testing.When I do the slap test with a 10 mm wrench which is very light, I turn the ignition on and it pulls the wrench very very very ever so slightly. Barely any magnet pull at all. What does that mean? Shouldn’t it be a strong pull?
The "slap test" is very useful, but also subjective. Obviously the bike is not charging and as Gary says it's high time to run through the charging system tests in a logical order - glad we've got a new thread. I've attached the manual as one orderly method and there are other tests too if something inconclusive appears. Please let us know what you find...When I do the slap test with a 10 mm wrench which is very light, I turn the ignition on and it pulls the wrench very very very ever so slightly. Barely any magnet pull at all. What does that mean? Shouldn’t it be a strong pull?