I’m going to try getting it out by putting it on its side.
I'd put the clutch cover back on with a couple of bolts just to protect the stuff behind it
I'd loosen the sprocket nut and the clutch nut with it still in the frame, since you can block the rear wheel or the chain to keep it from turningI’m going to take that advice. I assumed it would be easier to remove the clutch with the engine in the frame. This bike has never had this stuff apart. I’ve had it since new.
You'd think a person would put their best foot forward in an ad. Think I'll give 'em a pass.
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Done and done.I'd loosen the sprocket nut and the clutch nut with it still in the frame, since you can block the rear wheel or the chain to keep it from turning
Did y’all ever get all the oil squeezed out of your clothes?Good grief Griz! Don't try to talk Marty out of doing the top, don't you remember riding behind him?
Went back and looked and you're right, it is the watermark... doesn't change my thinking... "You'd think a person would put their best foot forward in an ad." Surely they can do a better pic than that.Don't know if these products are the real deal.............BUT.............What your pointing out as a defect is in fact the companies watermark......
Don't believe I ever claimed sainthood Doug, as I can make a mistake as good as the next guy. Didn't really expect to get chastised for it though...lot of people hang on your every post Jim.......
Marty, if you want to repair the tranny, you can split the cases without tearing down the top end. Just remove the case fasteners, hang the head off the bench supported on blocks, and pull the bottom case half. The old tranny lifts out and the new tranny drops in. It's one of those jobs where it's harder to screw up than to do it right. Tour Max is a house label from K&L Supply, and most independent motorcycle shops have a K&L catalog on hand. Tour Max seals and carb boots are from ARS, the Japanese original equipment manufacturer. It doesn't get better.