Reason I asked is your rotor has what may be rub marks on it.
Thanks @GLJ You are correct. I believe they were caused when running with mis-fitted stator. It seems to be turning freely now so I will report back after a brief test.Reason I asked is your rotor has what may be rub marks on it.
View attachment 241478
Glad to hear it!CHARGING WOES........... Go Away
OK, so came back to the bike with fresh Shell V-Power E5. Rigged up my remote fuel supply.
Checked all the wiring again. Fuel on. Choke out. Key on. Press start and she burst into life first press of the starter.
Let her run a few seconds then push choke in half way to keep revs up.
Volt meter to battery terminals and get a reading of......... 14.5 Volts.
So I guess I'm good with that.
If I've missed something please chip in.
Special thanks to @Jim and @jpdevol for help along the way.
Back to tidy up the wiring and refit LH case, Tank and seat unit. Should be good to go then.
Cheers as always,
Ads.
So the issue was the power to the regulator (brown) wasn't connected into the M-Unit?Volt meter to battery terminals and get a reading of......... 14.5 Volts.
So I guess I'm good with that.
The tap off that to the rotor brown brush was missing.So the issue was the power to the regulator (brown) wasn't connected into the M-Unit?
Cheers @JesseeSGlad to hear it!
Hey Ads,Cheers @JesseeS
You should post an update on your build; if its moved on.
I was really enjoying the progress. I know you made a conscious decision regarding biking; but wondered if you would finish what was developing to be a great bike.
Thanks for the update @JesseeSHey Ads,
No update as of late. Life has gotten seemingly more complicated and not sure when it shall clear up. That said, I was hoping to maybe get enough coin together this summer to get the wiring speedo and m unit ordered and wired up. That way I can just walk up and start it when I need a little therapy haha. The bike will live on! Just taking longer than I hoped for.
hello JP,Good Morning Ads - That sounds like a fairly significant problem. "fueling has become problematic"; so the bike did run fine and this is a new problem? And....what ignition is present?
Thanks for the lead @jpdevol and @JimYes, put a strobe on it and see if it goes bonkers at the same time the banging and popping starts. That'll give you a pretty good indication on where to look... carbs or ignition.
Hi @jpdevol,Good Morning Ads - That sounds like a fairly significant problem. "fueling has become problematic"; so the bike did run fine and this is a new problem? And....what ignition is present?
Hi @sleddog83Meant to add a note about what I am working on.
I ran my arduino tci all last summer. I hooked up my original tci module for the last few rides last fall. I concluded that the design was about 90 -95 % effective. Most of the time it worked flawlessly, but over the summer and accumulated rides, I noticed some instability at idle and the occasional problem starting. Back to the drawing board, or in this case, back to the IDE. Anyway this spring, I noticed that my idling and starting issues were getting worse. Tried some carb cleaner additive. Bike shop who sold it to me called it Jesus in a bottle... I guess it does miracles. It got it idling better,but still lots of popping in the exhaust at deceleration. So I currently have the carbs on the bench and refurbishing them. At least one of the throttleshaft seals are leaking. The mixture screw o-rings are crap. Will also replace float needle valves and pilot jets. Also..fuel line tee is cracked. Currently waiting for parts to arrive.
Fingers crossed @Jim, still waiting on the strobe. I guess TCI boxes are unobtainium? So it would be a used on fro fLea-bay / auto jumble.In the last 4-5yrs I've dealt with about 6 bad TCI boxes. I have two on the shelf right now and recently tested one for Gary. They all start and idle just fine. They start breaking up as you add throttle and the advance curve kicks in. In short, I've not seen a single one that just completely failed. So... that may have been your experience, mines been completely opposite.
Fwiw, I hope it is the carbs Adam. That's prolly the cheapest fix.
STROBE LIGHT SHOWShould look like this (idling) and as rpms added the rotor mark should move clockwise to the drain groove. We're also looking for the light (indicating spark) being steady with rpm and not breaking-up above your 2000rpm symptom mark (indicating loss of spark)
Hi @jpdevolIf I may suggest; One of the first things I'd do, given your symptom, is remove the pods and check for proper diaphragm/slide operation: start it up and peer into the bell and verify the slides are lifting with rpm. If not, or if they flutter @2000, press the choke rod in (attempting to overcome a leak) and see if the slides respond. Otherwise I'm also paying particular attention to the diaphragm operation (14sec drop test)