Looking good! I’ve never notice before, but are the top clamps polished from the factory on the early bikes?
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We're off to see the Wizard!
- Thread starter gggGary
- Start date
At least they are on this one (1970).
Are 70-71 rear shock tops polished aluminum, or painted black? the pair I have here are painted............
I think they are polished.
I also noticed that on this 1970, the head washers were all brass. I replaced them with the outer sealing washers and regular washers on the inside. Should I have left the brass washers?
Think I've got some good used ones if they are the same as later ones used various places.
Shock tool built, tested, and painted. I'll try to get it and some assembled shocks out in tomorrows mail.
Good choice on the shock you sent Bill, it had no damping.
Shock tool built, tested, and painted. I'll try to get it and some assembled shocks out in tomorrows mail.
Good choice on the shock you sent Bill, it had no damping.
Sumo Rubber. Great company to deal with.
Do a parts # search in these you might find what yur looking for
https://www.kdirepros.com/category-s/101.htm
https://hvccycle.net/search.php?search_query=584-83523-00§ion=product
https://sumorubber.com/xs650-xs650se
https://www.kdirepros.com/category-s/101.htm
https://hvccycle.net/search.php?search_query=584-83523-00§ion=product
https://sumorubber.com/xs650-xs650se
Thanks but no luck. The part number is 90480-13163-00. There is 8 per fender. Anyone have any?
They only show 1 in stock. It looks like any Yamaha dealer could order them.
...before you run out to the nearest Yamaha shop, try using that part number generically, at other parts outlets. You may find it to have commonality among other motorcycle/vehicle, and cost less than finding a specific, 40 - year old part... 
Yes, a hardware store grommet might even do the job!...before you run out to the nearest Yamaha shop, try using that part number generically, at other parts outlets. You may find it to have commonality among other motorcycle/vehicle, and cost less than finding a specific, 40 - year old part...
Only one shock had the plastic and paper inserts between the spring and body/cover, cut some for the second shock out of some plastic bottles.
Gotta admit was real happy with the Mark 1A shock rebuilder.
A fin on the bottom lets me clamp it in the bench vice to hold it. Turning the long nut on right (the big washer is welded to it) drives the body to the left pushing the rod out/left allowing you to fit a wrench on the jam nut to free/unthread the top clevis. Used a long bolt through the lower eye, stops the shock from turning as you thread the tool's rod in.
Notes; The shock shaft is slotted on the end to keep it from spinning while removing or adjusting the jam nut. The jam nut is directional, one side is bored to shaft size for about 5/16" so it threads on BEYOND the shaft's thread a bit. that side goes on the shaft first.
I swear 5twins fancy/pretty shopmade tools forced me to up my game from my usual crude rough unpainted "home made" tools.
No parts were purchased to build the tool, everything scrounged from bins in the shed of ill repute.
key words;
rear shock absorber absorbers shocks early shroud painted xs1 xs1b disassemble remove cover paint assemble clean adjust repair collar clevis eyelet rod bushing spring clamp fix remove restore repaint tool special compressor compression. how to shop clamp holder assembly
Gotta admit was real happy with the Mark 1A shock rebuilder.
A fin on the bottom lets me clamp it in the bench vice to hold it. Turning the long nut on right (the big washer is welded to it) drives the body to the left pushing the rod out/left allowing you to fit a wrench on the jam nut to free/unthread the top clevis. Used a long bolt through the lower eye, stops the shock from turning as you thread the tool's rod in.
Notes; The shock shaft is slotted on the end to keep it from spinning while removing or adjusting the jam nut. The jam nut is directional, one side is bored to shaft size for about 5/16" so it threads on BEYOND the shaft's thread a bit. that side goes on the shaft first.
I swear 5twins fancy/pretty shopmade tools forced me to up my game from my usual crude rough unpainted "home made" tools.
No parts were purchased to build the tool, everything scrounged from bins in the shed of ill repute.
key words;
rear shock absorber absorbers shocks early shroud painted xs1 xs1b disassemble remove cover paint assemble clean adjust repair collar clevis eyelet rod bushing spring clamp fix remove restore repaint tool special compressor compression. how to shop clamp holder assembly
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Seems right?
I went and looked;
in Dec of 2015 I had Tim install a new steel worm on my shaft so those should be the right parts.
"
Gary,
Got your package today, gear is installed and ready to send back your way.
You can pay ith Paypal if you like to,,,,,,
Please make it a "Personal Payment" which saves the Paypal charges.
Hopefully I can get it off in tomorrows mail.
If you prefer check or money order for $55 is fine. "
So those parts look right; three spirals / steel on steel.
in Dec of 2015 I had Tim install a new steel worm on my shaft so those should be the right parts.
"
Gary,
Got your package today, gear is installed and ready to send back your way.
You can pay ith Paypal if you like to,,,,,,
Please make it a "Personal Payment" which saves the Paypal charges.
Hopefully I can get it off in tomorrows mail.
If you prefer check or money order for $55 is fine. "
So those parts look right; three spirals / steel on steel.
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What color of green (XS1B) or paint brand/name of anyone using a spray can? I know it is called Candy Green.
Thanks.
Bill
Thanks.
Bill
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