What have you done to your XS today?

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The bike sits right-side to a wall so this little polishing was easy after shifter and footings came off. There remains some small spots behind the clutch cable that still have clear coating residual. I may try some stripper or some abrasive. I will not disassemble just to tart it up. Anyhow, I pulled it away from the wall and the other case looked to still have clear coat on. A minute with mother's and a small wheel did bring out a nice shine on one small spot.
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With a pair of small buff pads and Mother's it only takes 15minutes or so to get a real nice 10 foot finish but be warned. These cases are 40+ years old. My right has had the brake pedal pushed into with subsequent minor mar. Both have minor nicks and dings. I imagine a show quality build would address each flaw. Iam happy with clean, shiny, well presented.
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I used this Diamond Cut 2.0 on the 2500 rpm drill and the gloss improves. Diamond Cut is used for buffing automotive paint. From this angle you ban see the brake pedal dent in the case. From above and a few feet away it is unnoticeable unless you get real close. The brake pedal will hide it any way.
 
Am I foolish runnuig those tires?
I think they are well beyond their “Best Before Date”. Learned that with cars, but at least there’s 4 of them to keep you on the road. I just bought new tires for my ‘79. Rubber on the bike had plenty of tread but the compound seemed pretty hard. Not worth the risk imho.
 
Avon Road Riders on my ‘76. nice but expensive. Bought “inexpensive” rubber for the ‘79… Kenda K567’s. Just getting them mounted. No seat time yet so I can’t comment honestly on the performance.
 
Am I foolish runnuig those tires?
Not according to this LINK. CLICKY

The last time I ran some really old tires, they were fine, but wore out quickly.

Tire models and brands are very subjective. I like different tires on different bikes. Bridgestone S11 is on my 650. My Eleven Special wears Pirelli 66 Route. I like both.
 
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Yes, unless they're visibly bad (dry rotted and cracked sidewalls), I'll usually run and wear out the tires that come on a new-to-me bike. As jet mentioned, old tires do seem to wear quick, and that's probably a good thing. Being a new-to-me bike, I'm not riding it hard and pushing it to it's limits. That will come later, after I get a "feel" for it and get new tires on it of course, lol. Also, upgrade the suspension, tune it better, etc., etc.
 
Shinkos work fine, stick good, not the longest wearing but offer great value. probably have installed 30-40 of them.
I nearly got burned when an old hard rear tire came around on me late braking into a corner that was bit tighter than I expected.
That should have taught me.
 
Yes, I've been running Shinko rears, at least. I tried a front and I'm not crazy about it, maybe I just got a bum one. But I have a favorite front, at least a favorite front tread pattern. The original pattern is from Metzler, their ME33 Laser. But they're very expensive so instead, I run one of the knock-offs. Used to be a Cheng Shin C906, but they've stopped making them .....

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Now it's the Vee Rubber knock-off .....

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I fitted the manifolds and the vm34s, the boyer ignition and the drive sprocket once I had cleaned up the countershaft sleeve and the sprocket mating surface with a scotchbrite pad and torqued to 80ftlbs. Also had time to fit alternator rotor after riding the wife's RE to the bolt store for a nut for the crankshaft. (Thanks Jim). Tomorrow i will set the tappets and cam chain and the timing and turn it over a few times to get the oil circulating. If it's all good I can start it up.
Set the tappets to 6thou & 3thou and triple checked them and the boyer timing. Hard to start, idles slowly ,any throttle and it constantly spits/ backfires out the left carb ??. I triple checked the cam timing before fitting the rocker cover, all valves removed and new stem seals installed, new pistons and rings as well as all new crankshaft bearings and rods. Right cylinder runs ok. So is it carb or intake valve?. I could swap the carbs from left to right and see if that changes anything?
 
Ready for some sanding. Plastic hydraulic pipe clamps Are a good and cheap way to hold thin wall tubing. Metric ones come in 35, 38 and 42 mm.

Got one pretty shiny, and starter the second one, before having to go to a family dinner. To be continued!
 

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