What have you done to your XS today?

The combined tensile of those 8 studs is enough to pull the roof down, well maybe not, but enough to break whatever attachment he has for the hoist.
 
while getting out some fork parts for a member decided to build up a set for my stock These looked good but the seals were a BE-ITCH to get out, even with my trick gggGary seal remover. Turns out they'd been changed before, looks like the last guy used a cold chisel and crow bar to get the old ones out then beat in the replacements. An hour or so with riffler files had it smoothed out. The groove for the retaining ring had been caved in 5 or 6 places also
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Kinda nice having daddy's old tool and die chest around.
https://www.mcmaster.com/riffler-files/
The real deal ain't cheap but 15-$20 will get you a set off amazon or the bay.
Hint; working in a bit of mineral spirits keeps the files from plugging up, specially in aluminum.
This works with wet or dry paper also.
 
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looks good
I just bought a corded drill from the pawn shop for just that purpose
I am using a cordless 1100 rpm for now but I too bought an old BD corded 2500 rpm at a thrift store (attached to Habitat for Humanity) for $4 or $5. Beta testing Miguires Mirror Glaze in fine, medium and high cut on some small mars/scratches. I have used Mcquires on hull gelcoat on my raceboats for years so I have some laying around and thought I would give it a try. Mothers shines up the smooth stuff nicely.
 
Installed the rebuilt crankshaft after marking the bearings 90 degrees each side of the locating pin holes and it dropped in the top case nicely. I then Installed the new cam chain with both ends hanging evenly with the rods at tdc. Fitted new seals on the crankshaft, countershaft and clutch push rod, lubed the gears and applied aviation grade permatex to the bottom case with a cotton bud before joining the cases and torqued the nuts in sequence using new 8mm ID-16mm OD copper washers. Also Installed the new 1st oversized pistons into the cylinders from the bottom after fitting the inner pin clips. Will post pics and get back to it tomorrow after work.
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And the old dining table that extended out with fold up panels is very handy for inverting the engine and allowing the cylinder studs to hang down under the table. They were very common many years ago.
I think you gave me an idea. I'll use my motorcycle floor jack for that.
 
Fitted the cylinders after centering the front cam chain guide , and set it at tdc with the cam chain tight on the crankshaft and even at the ends . I then fitted the cylinder head after spraying the gasket with copper coat, put new bearings on the camshaft as far in as they would go and installed the cam with the notch vertical and the dot flush with the mating surface and joined the chain together with it all lined up at tdc. Next I applied a light coat ot permatex to the rocker cover and put it on hand tightening the acorn nuts with new brass washers on the outer four, then installing the points and govener housings without the gaskets and o-rings to ensure the bearings had centred before removing the housings and fitting the gaskets and o-rings then re fitted them and torqued the nuts in four stages to 30ftlbs . I will re-torque tomorrow once I get the engine in the frame. Also fitted the clutch basket with the jis screws replaced with the upgrade Allen head bolts and alloy sleeves, had fun refitting the kick start mechanism, put the clutch case on and installed the starter motor with a new seal on it. While I had the cases apart I replaced 5th gear with the overdrive upgrade and foundnothing to indicatewhy it was jumpingout of 2nd gear but the star selector slightly uneven which I adjusted.
Back to it when I can.
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Fitted the cylinders after centering the front cam chain guide , and set it at tdc with the cam chain tight on the crankshaft and even at the ends . I then fitted the cylinder head after spraying the gasket with copper coat, put new bearings on the camshaft as far in as they would go and installed the cam with the notch vertical and the dot flush with the mating surface and joined the chain together with it all lined up at tdc. Next I applied a light coat ot permatex to the rocker cover and put it on hand tightening the acorn nuts with new brass washers on the outer four, then installing the points and govener housings without the gaskets and o-rings to ensure the bearings had centred before removing the housings and fitting the gaskets and o-rings then re fitted them and torqued the nuts in four stages to 30ftlbs . I will re-torque tomorrow once I get the engine in the frame. Also fitted the clutch basket with the jis screws replaced with the upgrade Allen head bolts and alloy sleeves, had fun refitting the kick start mechanism, put the clutch case on and installed the starter motor with a new seal on it. While I had the cases apart I replaced 5th gear with the overdrive upgrade and foundnothing to indicatewhy it was jumpingout of 2nd gear but the star selector slightly uneven which I adjusted.
Back to it when I can. View attachment 207203View attachment 207204View attachment 207205View attachment 207206
Nice job. You’ll have that up and running in no time.
 
I am doing a little polishing.View attachment 207073
Looks nice. I need to polish up the ‘76 once the weather warms up. Bit too cold right now out in the garage. Even if I could get the air temp up to a comfortable level metal bits would still be freezing cold. Hopefully several more weeks will see nicer weather.
 
Fitted the engine in frame with all the mounts except the top one then spent hours looking for the nut that goes on the crankshaft to hold the rotor on, must have left it on when I took the crankshaft to the machine shop and came back without it. Does anyone know what size/ thread pitch the nut is ? as I can't take the crankshaft to the bolt store.
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I finally got around to start on a pair of muffler adapters. I grew tired of the poor fit and tight radius bends of my aftermarket/ single wall/38 mm headpipes. So I ordered a pair of SS 40 mm OD headpipes from Heiden Tuning. These are more of a replica of the stock pipes, and made in Germany. So far so good. Except they are shorter than the 38 mm pipes, and have zero upsweep. And being 40 mm, will not fit my "Commando" mufflers.
Adapters will be required. So I got a pair of 15 degree 38 mm OD SS bends from eBay, and dug out a piece of 42x2.0 SS hydraulic tubing for the headpipe connection. Bored one end of the 42 mm pieces to 40.20 in the lathe. Next step is tack welding them on to the 38 mm bends. Then check if I need to cut & shut in the bend, to reduce the angle a bit. Or just have the mufflers more upswept.
 

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I purchased a pair of new Hitchmaster devices with a carrying pouch and instructions on E-bay for $10.....

tim
Looked on line again and looks like the North American distributor may be in AK. They’re out of stock but I sent them an inquiry. Couldn’t see anything on eBay.
 
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