In series would require a 24v charger. Did you mean in parallel?
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What have you done to your XS today?
- Thread starter I am Carbon
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Yes Jim, you are correct. Parallel.
robtattoo
Someone said there'd be cookies???
Unfortunately the dead battery is a traditional lead acid.
Es ist kaput.
Es ist kaput.
Lookin' good @Dunc
CARBS ARE COMING OFF AGAIN TODAY!
I will re-clean for the umpteenth time and properly blow through the tiny holes.
May try different float height setting.
I have plastic floats set at 22mm from the deck at the shoulder of the tang.
May try 22mm at the top of the float curve instead.
Images as now:
I will re-clean for the umpteenth time and properly blow through the tiny holes.
May try different float height setting.
I have plastic floats set at 22mm from the deck at the shoulder of the tang.
May try 22mm at the top of the float curve instead.
Images as now:
Toro
XS650 Member
Getting it re-phased?Finally got around to tearing down the bottom end. Sat on my bench with just the top off for the past few monthsnow to send the crank off
Adamc, yes, the plastic floats are set by measuring to the rounded part of the float, not the flat surface on top. The way you set them, the fuel level will be too high (rich). This is from a Suzuki carb manual but they use basically the same carb .....
What did I do to my XS today? I exported from the US and imported it into Canada!
Bob Wegman
XS650 Enthusiast
I disassembled my 80 xs650 Special recently to clean and paint the frame. Was quite rusty from enjoyable rides in the last several winters. Salt is not friendly to motorcycles. Anyway, frame pretty much in control now and will soon be ready for some paint. My question is if anyone has ever used the Duraspray paint from Eastwoods?
Just did my frame with Aero-spray 2K Chassis black. Happy with the result!
Attachments
Still chasing a misfire / backfire issue.
Reset BS34 plastic carb floats at 22mm as per @5twins, following thorough clean. Reverted to non-resist plugs with resistor caps. Both sides now running great at idle. A Mile down the road backfire & pops again when adding throttle. Checking timing and valves again. Will I ever win with this bike?
Bob Wegman
XS650 Enthusiast
Thanks for the reply. Your frame looks great!
Hey Adamc, I have been following this from afar but don't recall what lead you to conclude that this is a carburetion issue. By the sounds of the symptoms, I tend to doubt that this can be attributed to carburation. I also doubt highly that this is a valve or timing issue, unless of course the valves are leaky as a result of lash / pitted or otherwise damaged seats / bent valves etc. Even then, the engine would not behave at idle.
If I recall, your bike has some sort of an electronic ignition system, no? That's precisely where I would focus my attention. You have some sort of disruption in the ignition process; in the triggering of the spark, in the strength of the signal going to whatever igniter box you have, in the igniter box itself...
What system do you have?
Thanks for the intervention @atom4488
Bike was a running 1980 TCI original system. Began having mis-fire issues. changed all the usual things: new Coil, leads, plug caps to non-resistor, new BPR7ES plugs correctly gapped. Bike ran perfect for three short rides then problem re-appeared out of the blue. Suspected the Hitachi original Igniter unit; so Gonzo install with GN250 Suzuki ignitor. Bike ran well again to a bike show; about 20 miles return. Next run bike was good for about 1 mile then misfiring on left again, back fire through carb! Back to shop and tinker, swapped to another GN250 box; bike would not fire on left at all. Followed a few learned members advice (mostly fuel related, hence multiple carb strip down). Reverted back to Non-resistor plugs and resistor caps. Bike idles on both sides nicely when warmed up. Ride off and all good for a mile or so then Bang Pop & Mis-fire on left again? Im at a loss now. Checking valve gaps and cam chain tension next (Again).
Cheers
Ads.
Ads, it's awful seeing you running in circles with this issue. After all the work you have done, and having the bike running well - unfortunately not for very long - I really can't see any need to check the valve gaps and cam chain tension again. These are not things that go wrong in the short term. Likewise, you've stripped and cleaned the carbs and reset the float level again, and unless you've got something consistently wrong, which I doubt, I don't think that's where the problem lies. So I'd be thinking about the electrics. OK, outside possibility of a fuel supply issue, but the symptoms don't sound like that. For example, inadequate flow from the tap would show up on giving throttle and blocked tap vent would show up after twenty miles, but not after one mile . . .
Summary - I agree with @atom4488 and would look for something in the ignition; triggering the spark, strength of the signal going to igniter box, igniter box itself. Perhaps go through the ignition system - ignition switch, wiring to Kill switch, thence to coil, igniter, sender. Check for loss of voltage along the way. But the the way the problem crops up maybe says dodgy switch or dodgy connection somewhere?
Intermittent faults can cause grown men to swear. BTW that's a joke.
Thanks for seconding the motion, Raymond. This is kinda like armchair coaching, which may be frowned upon by some... I would breakdown the ignition system (on paper) to its individual components and eliminate them one-by-one. I think its safe to say that you have eliminated the coil(s), plugs, plug wires, GN250 igniter box and probably other components as well. Focus on the components not double-checked to date. The problem seems to be related to running time, so is it being triggered by vibration, heat, something else? I would start with the trigger coil on the flywheel, which I assume is still in use as part of the former TCI system.
Keep us posted!
I'm all about checking the ignition first. One of my favorite sayings is never underestimate the ignitions ability to fool you into blaming the carbs.
Having said that.... we're talking a wasted spark system here. The list of things ignition related that can cause a one side only misfire are pretty small....
Plugs, caps and HT leads.... and the leads are a stretch. All that's been changed and some.
As long as Adam reports the problem only on the left side... well... these aren't the droids your looking for.
Having said that.... we're talking a wasted spark system here. The list of things ignition related that can cause a one side only misfire are pretty small....
Plugs, caps and HT leads.... and the leads are a stretch. All that's been changed and some.
As long as Adam reports the problem only on the left side... well... these aren't the droids your looking for.
