Yam_Tech314's official build thread

[G_YamTech_314]

No big deal, Jim. I'll figure that out when the time comes. Being that it's a specific fitment, can I still try my original idea of using the rear upper motor mount as a mounting point for the reservoir? Looks like that's where others have put it.

Also. How in the hell am I suppose to reassemble this points system... This is gonna be a trip!

 

[Jim]

can I still try my original idea of using the rear upper motor mount as a mounting point for the reservoir? Looks like that's where others have put it.

Don't see why not.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I'm assembling the points set up now. I found seven small washers/spacers... Should there be right, and do they go behind the copper arms?

 

[member28833]

Mechanical Advance mechanism.
Don't recall "7 washers"

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Perhaps the PO had NO CLUE what they were doing, but there's these seven tiny washers here that were in the same bag. I remember taking it all apart wondering how I was gonna figure it out but without those, it seems simple! I DO need new clips though, mine are bent to hell!

 

[member28833]

See some washers under the points assembly e clips however.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I left the points assembly together as a whole unit when disassembling. I figured, it ran... Why mess with it? Not to mention, that didn't have to come apart to get the advance rod out... The advance parts did.

 

[5twins]

There's usually just one shim washer under each advance arm, don't know why you have so many. The washer is a thin spring steel one, maybe even a wave type. So, examine the washers you've got. Some may be plain regular washers.

Here's the e-clip size you need .....

 

[5twins]

And the advance unit needn't be all disassembled like that to get the advance rod out, just pull the little slotted disc off the advance side. Then the rod can be slid out the points side, points cam still attached.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

And the advance unit needn't be all disassembled like that to get the advance rod out, just pull the little slotted disc off the advance side. Then the rod can be slid out the points side, points cam still attached.

I wish I'd have known that three years ago when this puppy came apart!

Do you have a link to the site youre referencing for the e clips?

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I managed to set the valve clearances to the manuals specifications. I remember hearing that sometimes people got better results running tighter clearances than the manual says, so I made sure to set it tighter than my usual "feel" with a ton of work, I manage to squeeze my .004in. gauge in the exhaust, and get the same squeeze feel for .002in. on intake. I do a go/no go double check and turn the motor over a few times to recheck. Everything reads the same now when I turn the motor over so I'd say they're accurate, AND tightened enough to not move. I struggled with this a lot in school but I feel pretty good about this now.

Furthermore, I plugged the points in where they belong for now, I'll have to figure out where the light blue/white wire plugs into, as well as the black wire with the ground clamp end. But for now I'd say all I really gotta do is buy a new battery, fully get the oil circulating, find new screws to secure the points housing, get new clips for the advance arms, buy new instruments and hook them up, attach the exhaust, and see what happens!

I also replaced hardware to match so I feel good about putting oil in it... Any other steps I should consider before filling her up with oil? I easily get ahead of myself.

 

[member28833]

Any other steps I should consider before filling her up with oil?

Are you going to skip using the chain guide?

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Nope. I have it lying around somewhere. Though, it's nice and beat up. I'll put that on in due time.

I've got a sinking feeling that I can't shake, but only because I don't remember specifically looking...

The oil scraper rings go in ONE way only. I know the letter faces up but I can't remember if I did it that way or not... I guess I'll know when it runs huh?

I hope I'm not tearing into this thing again for a long... Long... Time.

 

[GLJ]

Personally I think .002 and .004 is too tight. As Griz said a few days ago "it's better to hear them than smell them".

 

[5twins]

Yes, .002" and .004" is too tight. Go a minimum of .003" on the intakes and set the exhausts to .006". Here's a link for the e-clips .....

https://www.mcmaster.com/98543a112/

All the engine mounting bolts get a locking nut of some sort, and still they often loosen up, lol.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

What do you gurus think about my scraper ring uncertainty? Won't hurt to run upside down (if that's the unfortunate truth) will it? I assume it'll just burn oil, and/or smoke?

If it DOES smoke, I'll likely order new rings, a new cam chain, and do it all over again.

 

[GLJ]

The oil scraper rings go in ONE way only.

Oil scrapper rings as far as I know have no top or bottom. Top 2 rings for compression do. Oil rings just need to be installed correctly.

 

[GLJ]

Sleep easy grasshopper. You are second guessing yourself.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Well then that kinda makes me MORE paranoid

Say I have those buggers in wrong... I lose a shite load of compression? Blow by? Higher oil pressure?

Only reason I don't wanna tear it down to check them is cause if I have em' right I tore down for nothin.

 

[GLJ]

Only reason I don't wanna tear it down to check them is cause if I have em' right I tore down for nothin.

As I said you are second guessing yourself. If you are aware now about top and bottom of rings you were aware then also. Get it running and see what happens. Rings in upside down won't do any real damage. At worst you pull the engine out and fix it. First motor rebuild is a stressful learning experience. Believe me when it fires up your chest will puff out and you will walk around like you are 10 feet tall and bullet proof. Actually that's true no matter how many engines you've done.