Yam_Tech314's official build thread

There is a distinct direction of disc installation as far as flat side/rounded side on the metal discs. Does anyone here know the preferred direction? Instinct wants me to say flat(sharp) side goes in first? But then again, the rounded side would be an easier insertion. There's a lot that I learned in school that has escaped me... Not sure this matters as much as they lead me to believe it did but I'm a picky dude... :twocents: much appreciated here...
 
I'm not sure it really matters but I like to put the rounded side facing out. I figure the plates will separate and float apart easier when you pull in the clutch lever that way. But I also "dressed" all the teeth on the metal plates' sharp side against a wire wheel. I'm hoping that knocked the sharp edges off them and will allow them to float inward easier too.

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I decided to put the softer side outward as well. I figured it would allow easier movement away from spring tension as you mentioned. More realistically, I figured the springs wouldn't give it a choice when it comes to sharper side moving back inward. My only hope is that it wouldn't cause premature wear on the friction plates from moving inward. I think as long as it gets a gentle break in, and a smooth operator, it'll be just fine.

Got the right side cover on tonight. Things are actually starting to feel real now. I'm almost legitimately out of parts to throw onto other things.

The cover may come back off a few times so I can really get things right on the money but for now I think it'll catch any remaining drips of oil coming from my clutch discs. I soaked them for 4 hours... Patience isn't my strong suit. I feel that'll be more than good enough. Tomorrow I'll torque down the sprocket, order some parts, and clean the garage. I can't wait for this thing to be one full unit.

An after thought I had just now... Is it normal for the Kickstarter to not engage the crank at this stage? I did some reading and saw that lots of times the clutch worm gear must be installed and set correctly for the kick starter to engage properly. When I turn it, it recoils perfectly, and spins the sprocket when in gear, but I'm certain it should spin the crank at some point in it's operation... Lol
 

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The kickstarter engages the output shaft of the transmission. If that shaft turns and the clutch is engaged,it should turn the input shaft, and the input shaft should turn the crank. Leaving off the wormgear and rod won't keep the clutch from engaging.
 
So then there's likely something else going on..?
I'll pull the cover off and see what's happening. I know that the bike was in gear when I tightened the clutch spring holding screws because I used the sprocket for leverage to hold the basket in place.

As I type this, I am almost certain that I am missing a gear on the end of the crank that engages the flywheel. Oh boy what a silly mistake. I'm not sure I took that gear off my old crank before trading it away... Time to get on the horn and see if hes willing to give it back.
 
If you can't get it back, let me know; I can probably dig one up for you.

Got it all back today. After nearly four hours in the saddle on the trusty rebel 300 I got everything I need. Now to install, and torque down... Speaking of torquing down, what's the torque spec on that bugger? Can't find one in my manuals.

Also, there's a bit of confusion I'm having as far as clutch boss securing nut torque. The number in the torque specs section is 54-58 ft-lb but in the Clutch maintenance section it says 93 ft-lbs. That's quite a big difference...
 
The base gasket... Which way does it go? If I put it on in this orientation, it fits perfectly on the inner side of the gasket but overlaps the oil feed tube hole... The other orientation doesn't line up with the inner diameter... So which is correct?
 

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How do you guys manage to install the outer circlips once the pistons and cylinders are in??? I've got no ideas here. Tried a few things and stabbed my thumb twice. A bit frustrated here...
 

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