What does it mean???

To check if it is getting fuel loosen the drains on the float bowls and gas should spill out. If not your petcock is shot, I'd bet this is the issue. Is it a vacuum unit? Is a hose attached to the intake manifold to the pet cock?
Try putting in prime position.
 
Good advice GJ. The initial description of symptoms sure sounded like it was electrical or ignition related to me, though. I mean if a motor's running fine one second and then the next it just stops as if the ignition was switched off or the kill switch moved, that's why I'm thinking that. With fuel issues the motor will sputter for a while before dying. But you said you were getting spark, right? Only other thing I could think of is if the cam chain broke, but then you most likely wouldn't have good compression on both cylinders. A puzzler.

There's only a few things it could be. Fuel, timing, or electrical.
 
It's not the petcock, fuel does get to the carbs. btw they are NOT vacuum. They were replaced 2 years ago with ones from MikesXS and used w/ the bung plug on the manifolds. If the cam chain broke my valves wouldn't move either right?
 
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It's got to be timing.. go over all the ignition stuff again... check the points and advance.
 
I agree with the statement "if it were fuel it would of sputtered" That being said it sounds very similar to my electrical problem. You may have a spark, but is a nice blue arc? Whats battery votage when the key is on? Do you have 12.5volts or more at the coil? Were is PamCoPete? He'll starighten you out! He got me straight and then some. Also a compression test maybe in order. I can gaurantee its fuel,spark or air. LOL
 
well I just reset the timing, still no go. Drain plugs show both carbs have fuel. plugs seem dry though. would say plugged jets - but both carbs? at the same time?
 
damn.. Do you have a timing light? If so, try checking to make sure it's sparking when it should.

If that's not it, then I don't know what it is. If you have compression, fuel, spark, and timing (valves and spark) then the damn thing has to run!

Like smokenjoe asked, does it have a nice blue spark?

I would read through all the replies so far and make sure you've answered all the questions peoples have been asking. Some questions might be to get you to think about certain things, but most of time when people ask something, they actually want you to answer so they can help you further diagnose the problem based on your response to their questions. :cheers:

As far as the starter being coincidental, that crapped out two weeks before your current problem so I don't think it's that much of a coincidence. But then again, they could be related. Maybe your alternator brushes are worn and your battery was slowly losing its charge. The starter motor takes a lot of power so I guess it could spin slower causing the bendix to not engage. Then you kick started it for a couple of weeks until the battery got weak to the point where it would still spark, but not enough to make the bike start or run. :shrug: I kind of pulled that whole scenario out of my ass to make the connection between your starter that stopped working two weeks ago, and it dying and not starting again.... so don't rely on it too much. :D
 
ok, key on...
battery @ 12.74V,
left coil: orange=9.83V, red w/ white stripe=10V,
right coil: grey=.246V, red w/ white stripe=9.8V,
left plug cap=10.03V,
right plug cap=.236V.
 
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Ok, I read through a few times. But how do you know you have spark if the starter and the kicker both don't work? Maybe I missed something. Anyway. You need fuel, compression and spark to make a cylinder go bang. That's all we want right now. Does it do anything? If you think it may be fuel, spray a little carb cleaner in before you try, and see if it fires. Need a good spark to fire a compressed fuel/air mixture. Wish I was there...
 
ok, key on...
battery @ 12.74V,
left coil: orange=9.83V, red w/ white stripe=10V,
right coil: grey=.246V, red w/ white stripe=9.8V,
left plug cap=10.03V,
right plug cap=.236V.

...but if I rotate the engine, this should flip - correct? based on which points are open and closed. I haven't tried that yet. but that would meen that the coils may be a little week, but should still work. which brings me back to fuel...
 
well after fully recharging battery (only low from all my testing) each plug cap measures about 12.5 - 12.6V on there on cycle (depending on which points are in contact). so I guess I'm back to fuel. I'll try some carb cleaner (of course I didn't have any) and see if she fires. Then I suppose tear open carbs i suppose, and clean'em all out.



Tech7: the kick works, elec. does not
 
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I still don't think it's the carbs, especially since you said you're running fuel filters -- right? But I suppose it's worth a check.

You can check static timing without a timing light -- you just need a 12v bulb connected to a couple of test leads. This will give you an indication as to how close or far off your timing is. But unless it's way off, seems to me the engine should start, especially since it was running fine before it quit.

And you're positive you're getting a good spark to both plugs, right? A nice blue one?

I haven't seen you make any mention of an aftermarket electronic ignition, so I'm assuming you're still running points and condenser. Have you checked to make sure that nothing's grounded out or loose with your points/condenser? Do you have a spare condenser? If so, try changing it out. I used to own an old Honda Civic that would eat condensers and when one would go bad the engine would just shut down.

Also, just to be sure, I'd take apart the right side handlebar switch and inspect the kill switch contacts, make sure nothing's melted there or corroded, etc. I know you reported getting spark, but honestly I still think this is electrical related somehow.

About your kick starter "issues" -- the XS650 kick starter works only with the clutch out. Maybe because it wasn't working right when you had the clutch pulled in you thought there was a problem? This is normal.
 
yes to inline fuel filters
yesturday I reset the points using test light cranking by turning alternater "F" marks are spot on
I have spark, guess I'm not sure how "good" it is
yes still running points and condenser
connections all good - do not have spare condenser
spose it wont hurt to open the right side handlebar switch and check it out
 
Well now,
It turns out it was that my points gap had slipped (opened up). So in reality I had fixed the problem last night. However while doing so I tightend the cam chain too much to the point where I couldn't start the bike. Now it fires right up - 1 kick - every time! Now that it is running, I'll go back and double check my timing.
Thank you all!
 
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YamaHopper said:
2 weeks ago-bike was running great but the elec starter would not turn over the engine (ALWAYS worked in the past). You can hear the elec motor spin when pushing the start button.
Click to expand...

Okay then, to review -- it sounds based on your description that the starter's gear is not engaging the starter gear train down there in the crankcase, right? When it was working before, was it making any bad grinding noises -- indicating that one or more of the gears might be shot? This is not an unusual problem.

But if that wasn't the case, then it seems to me that you most likely have a faulty starter solenoid, or the wiring to/from the solenoid may be suspect. I'd check the wiring first -- inspect and clean all contacts.
 

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