Yam_Tech314's official build thread

7/2019:
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Damn. Really called me out with my own bike 🤣

Managed to get it all straightened out and ready for turn signal wiring tomorrow or Monday. I hope to root around enough to find pieces for the headlight assembly and get the whole front end wiring done and stuffed into the bucket.

Aside from a set of gauges... Might be looking into buying a set of I can find a nice pair.

I also need to get another new front brake controls assembly because I robbed the Yamaha to pay the Honda... Baby steps. Now that I have tools at home I'm more often motivated to go out back and make some real progress.
 
I'm back at the project finally. With my transition from motorcycle tech I can to warehouse maintenance technician I've found that I now have way more time, and a bit more money to throw at this sad, neglected piece of massive potential I've left unattended in my backyard for years... I feel bad about having left it alone for so long but I say no more...

Time to get back in the saddle.

I'm doing what you could call a spring cleaning. I have the carbs off for a good clean because I realized I left the gas on... (I know.. I should know better)

I discovered one of my floats filled with gas and caused my overflow to drip. A puddle of varnished gasoline on the bottom end is my punishment. I'll be ordering rebuild kits for these bad boys and a seat, fender, signals, and a set of gauges for it as well. It's high time this thing gets done this season.
 

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Rebuild kits are not recommended. They are aftermarket and the quality of the parts can be bad. Many times the float needle and seat assemblies leak right out of the box, and the jet sizes are wrong. For the float needle and seat, genuine Yamaha is best. The floats are just a common Mikuni item, the VM24-171, retailing for about $15 ......

Mikuni-VM24-171-Genuine-Brass-Float-Dimensions.jpg
 
Rebuild kits are not recommended. They are aftermarket and the quality of the parts can be bad. Many times the float needle and seat assemblies leak right out of the box, and the jet sizes are wrong. For the float needle and seat, genuine Yamaha is best. The floats are just a common Mikuni item, the VM24-171, retailing for about $15 ......

View attachment 301383
As always, your info is great. As far as new seals for everything where can I get the rest of it all? The bowl gaskets are bad also, and it's been so many years since I first rebuilt these, I have a much better grasp on carbs now than I did back then. I'm gonna give them a full go through and would like to replace everything.
 
The only seals in your carbs are on the ends of the butterfly shafts. If you never replaced them then I'd do it. Again, this is a part where genuine is best, but Yamaha charges too much for them ......

https://www.partzilla.com/product/y...?ref=27ef039dae3e26c2f3be6df7822160cd0a271d5c

..... so most of us use the Suzuki equivalent, same part just much cheaper .....

https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/13651-51010?ref=56effa58763ad658ef407e618a6d5738324b7135

..... and even less if you get them from Part Shark (you need 4) .....

https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/p/suzuki/13651-51010/seal

There are no o-rings in your carb set. For float bowl gaskets, I'd look for a 4- or 6-pack of K&L brand. Aftermarket yes, but good quality and cheaper than buying from Yamaha.
 
among other things im also on the hunt for a return spring for the rear brake pedal. thats all I need to finish my rear braking system entirely.
the part # i need is:

90506-20249-00 #11 on a parts fische.​


I have attached two pics of the spring. please let me know if anyone has one of these! seems like a pretty hard one to find.
 

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I have sourced a return spring for the rear brake pedal! Thanks @gggGary...

I also received all the parts in the mail for the carbs. I found under further inspection that the float on the right side carb had two hairline cracks in it! That'll do it...

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I also noticed that the idle mixture screws lack a washer and o-ring behind the spring itself... I looked at a parts fische and this seems to be correct... Every other carb I've ever seen has a washer and o-ring behind that spring... Interesting.

Now I'm wondering what I'll need to do to synchronize these puppies. Ordinary carb syncing requires a hookup to the vacuum port on the intake rubber but mine do not have that. I'm sure this has an easy answer but the manuals I have do not specify carb syncing procedures.

In other news, I also received a chrome fender that was scratched, rusted, and pitted from yamahaxs650.com I'll be returning it and trying to source one elsewhere. Likely aftermarket with an option for it to be painted instead of chrome.

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Yes, the mix screws need the washer and o-ring.

Vacuum port is from a block-off screw. Remove it and install a barbed fitting.

From the Carb Guide:

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Wonderful information as always. I figured that was the case... I went against the grain and already installed washers and o rings that I already had layin' around. They were the same diameter as the spring so I sent it...

Now to find me those nifty barbed fittings and buy a decent set of sync gauges.
 
I'm realizing now that I've been putting the carbs back together the way I pulled them apart this whole time and that's incorrect...

I'm 99% sure that this set of carbs have to have the choke assemblies swapped lol. I'm seeing two vacuum port screws on one carb and that should not be. Maybe the darn thing won't backfire anymore when these are finally assembled correctly.
 

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If your carb set is a '76-'77 one then there are no o-rings or washers on the mix screws, just a spring ......

76-77MixScrew.JPG


The o-ring came along on the '78-'79 BS38s, and the little washer didn't happen until the '80 BS34s.

Yes, your choke plates are on the wrong carbs.
 
If your carb set is a '76-'77 one then there are no o-rings or washers on the mix screws, just a spring ......

View attachment 322499

The o-ring came along on the '78-'79 BS38s, and the little washer didn't happen until the '80 BS34s.

Yes, your choke plates are on the wrong carbs.
It's crazy how much they changed in such small ways from year to year. What's crazier is that you guys KNOW every single little change that was made. Suppose I should pull the washers and o rings back out then lol
 
Well, I'm kinda into the carbs and have made quite a study of them, lol. At least the later linked sets anyway. I'm sure there's things about the early separate carbs I don't know, but I never had any and don't plan on ever using them. If I got an early 650, I would most likely swap on a later linked carb set.
 
Well maybe I guess. But the several I've encountered all looked like that. The texturing on the brass tells me this float was coated with gas varnish and sat that way for a long time. The gas varnish eats into the brass and weakens it. Pin holes and/or cracks are the result.
 
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