I don't think it will make any difference if you put the uprights inside the base. Just compensate by making your base wider. However you build it, you need to end up with the same spacing between the uprights or it won't fit on the motor. You also want to end up with the same difference in hole heights between the front and rear uprights or the motor won't sit level in the stand.
 
I made these. The first one was tacked together with a motor case to get dimensions. The second was made with measurements from the first. Someone wrote and said the dimensions were wrong but it works for me? A little taller and wider then others. Stable and allows bottom access. Fits real nice on a Harbor Frieght $8.99 dolley.

XSStand1.jpg

XSStand2.jpg
 
hey guys anyone using any of these engine plans with an older motor? i thought i read somewhere the motor mounts are a little different on the older xs's. i have a 72. but cant get measurement s at this time and will be welding a stand up tommorrow.
Thanks!
 
I have one on a '70-'71 motor. 2nd style using 1st set of dimensions. Up/down and front to rear dimensions are wrong on 2nd plan. 6.5" is too much front to rear and 2" up/down makes the engine sit unlevel.
 
Bed frames are the best place to get angle iron. I find mine in the trash. There are so many metal scrapers looking for metal to fill their pick-ups the trash isn't as good of supply as it was in the past. People throw out bedframes because allot of mattress companies sell the set with a frame. Pick up the frame as soon as you see one. That's some nice steel for projects!

Tom Graham
 
What size bolts are used on the front and bottom mounts? I want to build mine out of some scrap wood and bolts from the hardware store.
 
I like that idea, but it would require a tap/die to chase the threads of the cut rod, can you get metrix threaded rod? I've got metric tap/die.
 
NVM just ordered some M10x1.5 that should do the trick.

I just didn't want something I couldn't clean the threads on. I understand that the rod will just be passing through.
 
When you cut all-thread, all you do is put a nut on 1st before you cut then run it off and it cleans the cut threads, no die required. Sometimes a little file work helps too.
 
I found plans to build an engine stand, but they were hardly legible. I redrew them and changed two things; 1) added an inch to the height for clearance with the starter still installed and 2) changed the hole size to a proper one. Both suggestions came from this thread.

I am posting a small JPG and a link to the PDF version for clear printing. Let me know if it needs adjustment. Cheers guys!

650-stand.jpg

download it here

It seems some stands do and some don't have enough clearance for the starter. Does this one work well with the starter?
 
I like the one that allows you to spin the motor upside down to get to the bottom end. I have seen lots of different designs on ebay and they all were the type that just allows top end work. I haven't yet seen one on ebay that allows for bottom end work. Not being a welder myself I was hoping to buy one.
jefft
 
Yes, Alfredo's version will allow starter clearance. Here's a link to the original plans. As you can see, the uprights are about an inch shorter. If you look at the pics, you'll see the guy needed to cut a "V" notch in the right side rail for starter clearance. Make the uprights longer and you don't need to do that .....

http://www.650motorcycles.com/XSstand.html

Here's mine and as you can see, the starter clears just fine. I use it on an old A/V stand I pulled out of a dumpster at work (amazing the good things they throw out, lol). I also added an outrigger to the side to hold the cam chain up .....

6IrFngI.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top