You should be fine.
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The reconstruction begins 1977 (Surprise)
- Thread starter Mikey
- Start date
Yes to that however there can be a working range for the electronics so please check so you dont apply to much torque --- damaging the torque gauge
Yep, that's a direct rotation. The only time you need to worry is when you change the length between the socket and the handle.
OK, time for the proper front wheel install technique - have the fender and the clamp on the bottom of the left fork leg loose, and hand tighten the axle. You want to make it fairly tight so the axle and wheel get pulled over tight to the right fork leg. Stick a bar of some sort through that hole in the left end of the axle to hold it from turning. A #2 Phillips screwdriver usually fits nicely and works well. Once that's done, you want to take the bike off the centerstand and pump the forks a few times. I don't use the front brake for this as it only grips the right side and can induce a twisting action into the forks. Instead, I like to butt the front wheel up against something like a wall. Pumping the forks like this will allow the loose left leg to "center" and align itself on the left side of the axle. I then carefully put the bike on the sidestand and tighten the clamp on the bottom of the left fork leg. Then you can centerstand the bike again, do the final torquing of the axle, and lastly, tighten the fender.
There you are
I have not locked anything in yet so I can move things around as you suggested
Thanks
Another lesson learned
Cool thing about it I now feel comfortable talking the wheels of when it's time to get new rubber
All you guys rock!!!
Just tightened on the front axle castle nut the specs are 50.6-72.3 Ft LBS
My little torque guage is at 51.6 and it's beeping so I assume it's at it's limit
take a look at the axle in relation to the rim it looks like the left side could go in further ( although the hole in the left side of the axle is basically flush with the left front fork )
I would assume I need a larger torque wrench to get the ft lbs up at least to mid range of the torque the specs call for
Big question is could the left fork be bent outward (although the impact should have pushed it inward and or towards the front )
Nothing else has been tightened more than a little past snug
My little torque guage is at 51.6 and it's beeping so I assume it's at it's limit
take a look at the axle in relation to the rim it looks like the left side could go in further ( although the hole in the left side of the axle is basically flush with the left front fork )
I would assume I need a larger torque wrench to get the ft lbs up at least to mid range of the torque the specs call for
Big question is could the left fork be bent outward (although the impact should have pushed it inward and or towards the front )
Nothing else has been tightened more than a little past snug
That looks good and correct. That's how they end up, with that cross hole in the left side of the axle just showing, and about a 1/8" gap between the speedo drive and the inside of the fork leg ....
And on the nut side, just a thread or two protruding out of the nut .....
If I torque the axle nut at all (I didn't for years, lol), I just bring it up to the minimum spec then hand tighten it further until I can get the cotter pin in. I know it at least met the minimum spec and is now tighter because of me aligning the nut for the cotter pin. The reason I didn't torque the axles in the past is I hadn't found that torque spec given in a range yet, just as a single value. Well, a single value for a nut that gets a cotter pin is just plain silly. You know it won't be aligned for the pin at that value, lol. Also, the single values given in most of the torque charts are quite high, pretty much at or near the max of the "range" spec. For the rear, that single value spec is something like 105 ft/lbs. I tried torquing it once and could barely get it that tight, so I just went back to tightening them by "feel", making them "good and tight". When I finally did discover the torque spec as a "range" ('77 torque chart), after tightening the axle nuts "my way", I put a torque wrench on them set to the minimum spec, and they were both good. So, it seems I was tightening them up enough by "feel" all along.
And on the nut side, just a thread or two protruding out of the nut .....
If I torque the axle nut at all (I didn't for years, lol), I just bring it up to the minimum spec then hand tighten it further until I can get the cotter pin in. I know it at least met the minimum spec and is now tighter because of me aligning the nut for the cotter pin. The reason I didn't torque the axles in the past is I hadn't found that torque spec given in a range yet, just as a single value. Well, a single value for a nut that gets a cotter pin is just plain silly. You know it won't be aligned for the pin at that value, lol. Also, the single values given in most of the torque charts are quite high, pretty much at or near the max of the "range" spec. For the rear, that single value spec is something like 105 ft/lbs. I tried torquing it once and could barely get it that tight, so I just went back to tightening them by "feel", making them "good and tight". When I finally did discover the torque spec as a "range" ('77 torque chart), after tightening the axle nuts "my way", I put a torque wrench on them set to the minimum spec, and they were both good. So, it seems I was tightening them up enough by "feel" all along.
Good to know
Thanks!!
Now to get past frigging GOLF
There screwing my watching 60 Minutes
I know blah blah but golf ? A good Way to ruin a nice walk in the park if you ask me
Getting things put back together but I think I solved the torque issue with the castle nut on the right side of the axle
Everytime I tried to tighten the nut the torque guage when I could see it would read 51.6 and beep
Try to tighten it again 51.6 and beep and 1 more time ...beep
The torque guage is rated 5.9 - 59.0 ft lbs
I'm thinking that everytime I tried to give it a little more and beep ..... ( I pretty sure I'm past the 59ft lbs limit )
It's has now decided it was time to quit no more readings no more beeps
Goodby old friend
Helloe Amazon $59.99 and free shipping new ones coming
And for $79.99 the have one that is 1/2" drive and it goes from 25-250 ft lbs
Everytime I tried to tighten the nut the torque guage when I could see it would read 51.6 and beep
Try to tighten it again 51.6 and beep and 1 more time ...beep
The torque guage is rated 5.9 - 59.0 ft lbs
I'm thinking that everytime I tried to give it a little more and beep ..... ( I pretty sure I'm past the 59ft lbs limit )
It's has now decided it was time to quit no more readings no more beeps
Goodby old friend
Helloe Amazon $59.99 and free shipping new ones coming
And for $79.99 the have one that is 1/2" drive and it goes from 25-250 ft lbs
Attachments
One more thing when I was putting the turn signal staulks on I thought lets install those Bright Star LED bulbs I bought awhile back
I tried them and from the way the design on the bottoms are, they won't fit
That's a bummer oh well ..
Oh shit where did the time go it's half past beer 30 gotta go
I tried them and from the way the design on the bottoms are, they won't fit
That's a bummer oh well ..
Oh shit where did the time go it's half past beer 30 gotta go
Attachments
If you want to save I have used those sometimes
length x force ( 90 Degrees ) = Torque
You can check if it shows right with a bucket of water or something
They come in different sizes so check for the right size
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Luggage-...etlipLX0k7z_O&athancid=1781066854&athena=true
length x force ( 90 Degrees ) = Torque
You can check if it shows right with a bucket of water or something
They come in different sizes so check for the right size
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Luggage-...etlipLX0k7z_O&athancid=1781066854&athena=true
Mikey it looks like you have leds for a dual element light (stoplight) you need single for the turn signals.
I need to shop more carefully
Anyone need these bulbs I'll open up the other 2 packs and see what's in them too and if they are all the same then someone else might ass well have them
Anyone need these bulbs I'll open up the other 2 packs and see what's in them too and if they are all the same then someone else might ass well have them
For the average home mechanic a simple beam style torque wrench is the way to go. You won't be searching for some weird ass battery every-fricking-time you want to use it.
I got along just fine for decades with a 3/8" and 1/2" beam style torque wrench till a neighbor's garagesale had a TOTE FULL of snap on torque wrenches 15-20? of every size and type along with dozens of rebuild parts kits. He was a tech at a nuke plant and they didn't fix or recalibrate anything, just bought new.
So now I'm a torque wrench snob LOL.
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Mikey this is the style bulb you need for your turn signal.
https://www.amazon.com/Melphan-Auto...id=1692105386&sprefix=LED+1147,aps,126&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/Melphan-Auto...id=1692105386&sprefix=LED+1147,aps,126&sr=8-6
I liked the one I broke it had a few features that worked for me but I might go with the beam type for the larger torque settings as I won't use it very often
I have to check the other un opened packages maybe I got the order right on them ?
